Feeds:
Posts
Comments

Archive for the ‘Design’ Category

Hay guise! I started a tumblr, to chronicle my design research. Right now I am working on two projects (or possibly two aspects of one), both of which I elaborated on last post. I’m going to keep adding as the discourse becomes more complex and as I gather more information. : )

Enjoy, all!

Advertisements

Read Full Post »

I had quite a summer – I made quite a few excellent things, which I’ll be posting one-by-one as I get satisfactory pictures. I’m back at school, which means it’s time to spend hours of free time in library and walk for miles in Meatpacking, SoHo, and East Village. :) I’ve been assigned a major project: I am to choose a design company with at least two selling points in the city – each selling at different market levels, pick one of those markets, and design/illustrate a hypothetical line for it. I’ve chosen the Japan-based Comme Des Garcons brand, because it will be a fun challenge and it meets all the requirements.

I visited the two stand-alone shops CDG has in New York – the shop staff is famously friendly. I’ve been to each place a couple of times before and have never bought anything, but they always answer my questions and love to chat about design. This time, with a specific goal in hand, they even recommended books and gave me a mini-tour of the lines, explaining target customers, design sense, etc.

This is the NYC flagship store. The front is covered in street art (with new additions often) and is famously hard to find. You only realize something is here/different if you know what to look for...

...which in a way sums up CDG's entire design philosophy. This is the tunnel door. :)

"Black" is CDG's lower-priced "basics" line. Only the clothes are not so basic. Dropped-crotch pants, boiled and object-dyed garments, and classic CDG details abound.

Originally, the standalone "Black" stores were only supposed to be open for a year, but the concept worked so well they added "Edited" to the name and kept them open.

Right now, my favorite aspects of CDG design are deliberate “problems” (jackets washed or bleached after construction, seams and entire garment sections turned inside-out or swapped, etc.), innovative use of both new and old garment (and sometimes industrial) technologies, and a unique sense of beauty in the “ugly” or deformed.

CDG Editorial for SS1997 "Body Meets Dress, Dress Meets Body" (aka "Lumps and Bumps")

AW 1983-84 Runway pic - French-braided sweater

I notice that the shop staff are pretty sensitive to the types of descriptors I used for the clothes. They preferred “different” to “unusual” or “strange”. There are those of us who cherish the unusual — but they’ve got clothes to sell. : )

So far, I have a few ideas for my design project, involving dip-boiled suits, displaced shoulder pads (which CDG has done before), and a developing concept about the nature of uniforms. Uniforms simultaneously induce conformity, but also set a group apart. This reminds me of street fashion and “style tribes”, with organically-produced “rules” and recognizable details that are often appropriated by the mainstream. Right now I’m studying the Cintas website and this excellent online collection of airline steward uniforms for common patterns and rules. I’ll write more about this later. : )

Read Full Post »

Our second-to-last pattern-making project centered around the Dolman sleeve block. This project involved some of my favorite design details (like the in-seam pockets). As an experiment, I also created a hood that flowed into the body as a collar. Next time I’ll angle the hood more towards the front of the body… this one just wanted to fall down.

The latest fashion for Sith lords. xD

I actually like the ripply effect here... on the mannequin. I don't think it'll work on a real person. -_-;

I'm afraid the back isn't terribly attractive. I don't think it's just the muslin... I was trying to create a round silhouette and it came out as long flares. Oh well, next time I know what to do.

For our final non-final-project project (lawl), we worked with the shawl collar block. After seeing a wicked jacket at Atelier (I swear, one day I will attain that level of design confidence), I decided to implement one of my sketchbook ideas from last semester – a partially cut-on, partially set-in sleeve. Oh, and the seam twists around the arm too. >:D Thank you Pattern Magic…

A "backwards" shawl collar - it stands up and away from the body, rather than flat against it. And oh, yeah, even more in-seam pockets. (They're easy to draft, okay??)

A much more successful back. You can see the seam twist above the elbow area.

Graceful curves and corners. Here you can see the sleeve turning into a set-in over the shoulder. Next time I'll use a sleeve board to press the thing, tho...

The only major problem with this pattern is the wrist – it’s too small. This is one of the few muslins I made this semester that I actually want to make up in real fabric. Some bulky wool that will really show off the seams…

I’d appreciate your honest feedback on these! I’m pretty proud of them, but that usually means I’m going to dislike them in a year as much as my other designs. I need an educated eye to help me improve on these. Thank you so much, in advance. :)

Love and Blessings,

 

Naomi Reyes

Read Full Post »

For my Flat Pattern Design II final project, as a challenge to myself, I added some special limits: each garment would be composed of ONE piece of fabric, with ONE seam holding it together, plus facings and closures.

And I did just that. :)

Front of the Outfit

I figured an asymmetric back closure would suit the overall design.

Jacket laid flat, with "spiral-shawl" collar (I had to break my "one-seam" rule here to satisfy the project requirements) and facings sewn.

Shorts laid flat. Yeah, it looks more like a manta ray than a garment. xD

The shorts zipped up and pinned up, ready to sew.

I also made a video with me  sewing the jacket’s one seam. :)

Yes, I realize that this isn’t the prettiest or the most marketable jacket and suit. It’s not even the most sustainable design (actually, sort of the opposite). In fact, it’s sort of gimmicky. But this experiment represents some of my design ideals. I appreciate challenges, not so much “outside the box” — rather, a different box, a box of my own choosing. Learning the rules – in order to eventually break them – shows you what the real rules are and why they’re there. Hopefully, as I keep breaking the rules, my design sense and technical/business skills will keep up. I do want to sell these things at some point… xD

I have a couple more experiments to show you from the last month or so… so yah, stay tuned. :)

-Naomi R.

Read Full Post »

Click here for Naomi J. Reyes’s Spring 2011 Portfolio

Includes Illustration, Sewing, Patternmaking, and Draping work.

Feel free to explore the rest of this site for more examples of my past work.

Read Full Post »

I recently completed a major design presentation project. The assignment: design and illustrate a small coordinating collection of 3 coats and 2 suits (skirt or pants).

Click for high res.

It was refreshing to have some free reign on a design project for once. (Our previous assignment was a spring/summer J. Crew line – useful experience, but not terribly exciting). I’ve been learning a lot about some of the major Japanese designers, so this “ode” is more of an homage to their late 70s “crow tribe” fanbase.

I’d love some constructive critique on this, especially on execution and balance of the figures. I am working towards a style that is both pretty to look at an informative to, say, a tech designer or a patternmaker. Actually, looking at it in thumbnail form, I’m already starting to see a couple places worthy of improvement…

 

Cheers,

Naomi

Read Full Post »

I would like to get more consistent about posting here, so I will post photos of my successful muslins here each week after they have been graded.

In terms of design (not execution, unfortunately), this is my favorite so far: the “Solace” dropped shoulder jacket.

 

I aimed to gently “fade” a pleat on the body into a seam on the sleeve. It worked, but next time I’ll sew it differently. Note the collar transition.

I’ve been wanting to try something with subtle pleating for a while now. This project was my chance.

The back. Next time, I’ll put some interfacing in the collar to make it more structural.
The back of the shoulder. I’d like to make the curved seam going down the shoulder look more “intentional” next time.
Another view of the sculpted shoulder.
This garment looks much better worn. You can see the shaped wrist opening pretty well here. (Yay for discreet 3-sided mirror shots. :) )
A view of the neckline when worn. The curved stand effect is clearer here.

Perhaps I am being naive by highlighting all my mistakes here, “naming” my cuts (I’m not quite ready to start assigning style numbers), or by even posting it all here in the first place. But I like to share, I am proud of my work, and I love to document.

I do not seek inspirations. I seek information, references, skills, levels to aspire to. Again, this is design, not decoration. Nor marketing. Nor branding. Nor fashion shows with famous models. All that can come later. Right now, I need to absorb as much as I can from the greats (maybe I’ll ask for a day to look at the museum’s permanent collections…) and hone my own cutting and execution skills. I want to be a manufacturer who is capable of couture. I seek the level of Yamamoto, Galliano (yes, him too), Miyake, Rucci, Balenciaga, Toledo… with the philosophy of Margiela. Or Takahashi. Or Kawakubo. (Or even my own.) I wish to be like Steele, Simonton, Naoto, Richard and Michael… people for whom fashion keeps them young. Callused hands and laughing eyes…

 

-Naomi

Read Full Post »

Older Posts »